For Michigan Driveway Repair & Maintenance, It's Imperative to Address Cracks and Defects as They Occur
Salt Controversy
We will have snow and ice every winter in Michigan. Our driveways and walkways need to be cleared and safe not only for our own personal protection but for anyone else who enters our property. Salts can be corrosive and damaging to our surfaces and environment. Generally, magnesium chloride is less damaging to concrete, plants, and trees compared to other options. Why does salt damage concrete? If concrete is installed properly, is drained properly, and has had 30 days to cure before the first freeze and thaw cycle, it can withstand the additional freeze and thaw cycles that salt makes concrete go through. However, if standing water exists or cracking has occurred in the concrete, the brine from the melted salt and water can seep down into cracks, deteriorating the strength of concrete, therefore shortening its lifespan. Therefore, it is imperative to address cracks and defects in concrete as they occur.
Concrete Repair
Eventually concrete will get some cracking and damage especially in a harsh climate such as Michigan’s. It is important to assess the problem area first to determine if a minor repair will handle the problem or if a rip out and replacement of one or more slabs is necessary. If many of the slabs are damaged, the fault usually lies within the sub structure. Until the base structure is fixed, the damage will continue, making repairs a waste of valuable time and money. Just as in asphalt driveways, the sooner minor cracks are fixed the better for the future of the rest of your driveway or walkway. If water continues to seep down into the cracks, it will erode the sub base causing further heaving and cracking of concrete.
Oil stains on concrete: Oil stains can be removed with a brush (not wire as it can scour concrete), dish soap and water. Scrub the mixture in and blot up with paper towels so soap does not go in the drainage system. If this does not work solvents may be used but they are extremely toxic and are best applied by a professional.
Concrete cracks: Chisel out damaged concrete until you get to solid concrete. Clean cracks of all debris, dirt, and oil. Dampen the cracks. Prepare cement to paint like consistency. Brush the cement on the area to be repaired to ensure a proper bond from the new concrete to the old. Add patching compound. For larger cracks stone may need to be added. For further information on fixing cracks on your own refer to www.askthebuilder.com. Some materials available for concete crack repair include:
- Vinyl concrete patching compound for cracks ¼ inch or wider
- Pourable grout designed specifically for concrete with cracks up to ½ inch. Very good for narrow cracks, horizontal surfaces only.
- Acrylic latex concrete caulk for cracks 3/8 to ½ inch wide. This caulk expands into the crack and also expands and contracts with the weather cutting down on future repairs due to its flexibility.
- It is best to pour silica sand in the cracks prior to any concrete caulking to save on material cost.
Large patches for concrete pavements, driveways and patios: Large areas such as driveway and patio corners need to have the new area attached to the old concrete with steel rods drilled into the concrete. Otherwise stress will just crack that area again. The steel rods need to be located in the middle of the repair, not the edge. The steel rods add strength because the new concrete that is poured attaches above and below the rod and adheres to the irregular surface of the rod. Patched areas should be covered by plastic and dampened for 4-7 days to encourage a strong finished product.
Read more at www.askthebuilder.com about long-lasting concrete repairs.
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